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The perfect 100 point Restoration of the Legendary Honda CBX

My introduction to the CBX

The late seventies were the dark ages for the automotive industries in my opinion. Gone were the glory days of the muscle cars, and we were TORTURED by the oppressed 55 MPH speed limit. But there was something very exciting happening in the motorcycle industry that only motorcyclists were enjoying. All through the 70s, bikes were getting better, faster, and more interesting each year. It seemed like each month, we looked forward to the latest news read from the pages of all the Moto Magazines and Newspapers. By the late 70s, the performance and excitement was at a feverish pace. The Yamaha XS1100 hit the streets with a force that dethroned the almighty KZ900. Wow, how could bikes get any better, or any faster? (we thought). I had to have one! I loved my XS1100.

I was the cock of the rock! 22 years old, and the fastest thing on the road.

I don’t remember the exact moment that I heard of, or read about the CBX. But I do remember what my first reaction was... Oh My God…..I wonder who I can sell my XS11 too. At 22, and in 1978, $3500.00 was an astronomical amount of money. But I figured with the money I could get for the 11, plus this months rent, and little help by eating “Mickey Ds”, I would have enough to get one of those Candy Glory beauties of my own. By December of 1978, there was somewhat of a price war going on in LA for CBXs. Every day in the LA times, there were a couple of dealers that would publish the prices of there bikes. Pasadena Honda was always the cheapest. They listed the bike at $3299.00 plus tax & license. On December 7, 1978, I honored Pearl Harbor Day by hitching a ride to Pasadena Honda from my neighbor, who by the way I had convinced a couple of days earlier that the XS1100 was the best bike ever made, and how fun it would be for us go riding together. It worked, he bought my 11, and on to Pasadena we went.

I had exactly $3600.00 in my pocket in cold hard cash. When I walked into the showroom, it was 5:00pm, and they closed at 6. I walked over to the line of CBXs. There were 3 silver ones and 4 red ones. I thought, Ok, do I want silver or red? I never even stopped as I past the row of silver bikes on my way to the Candy Glory side of the showroom.

I was scrutinizing the paint of each bike when the sales guy walked up and asked me if I needed any help. I said, yes, can you pull this one out of the line so I can look it over? After looking it over, I looked up at him and said, I’ll take this one. He said, Oh, Ok, I’ll get a credit ap. I said, no that’s ok, “I have cash” That statement, and a beautiful woman saying “OK” are what a 22 year old male lives for. I took flight on my brand new Candy Glory Red CBX at 6:00pm. Wow what a SOUND! I thought. It was the best sound from any bike I had ever ridden. I was in love before I rode it the one mile to the freeway on ramp.

These (fuzzy) pictures were taken the next morning when I rode it to work. My bud at work said, ride it up and back, and I’ll snap a picture. I wish I had him take more! Sorry, bell bottoms were “in” then.”

It was getting dark, and the red glow of the instruments was the coolest thing I had ever seen on a bike. I was fixated on the look, the sound and the feel of the bike all the way back to Orange County. I was hooked for life. To this day, It is my opinion that the CBX has one of the best sounds ever achieved. Good work Honda.

This is my original sales receipt

I rode my ’79 for a year and loved it. When the ’80 CBX came out with its suspension improvements, again, I had to have it. So I sold my ’79 and bought one. I actually liked the 80 better due to the fact that it handled and rode better than the 79. I am still amazed that the 79s are more desirable. Yes, the 79 has a little more power, but there are only a fraction as many 80s as 79s, and the power difference is hardly noticeable really.

These days, neither bike holds a candle to the performance monsters that the new bikes are. But the fact still remains that the CBX will probably always hold its position for being one of the most beautifully designed and unique bikes ever produced. It attracts attention like few bikes ever have. It stood out in 1979 and still stands out and attracts attention just as much as it did in 1979, if not more, and you can bet that it will continue to do so in the future. Don’t believe me? Just ride up to a group of modern day Sport Bikes, Cruisers and what I call SUV Bikes and see if there isn’t a crowd gathered around the CBX in a minute.

Some say that the CBX is the next Vincent. I agree with that assumption. I think it has already started taking on that metamorphosis. The CBX leads the pack of a few other bikes from the 60s and 70s that are going down the same path as the muscle cars of the same era. Like the muscle cars, these bikes were raw, exciting and pure in their design and individuality, especially the CBX.

Having said all of that, this article is now at the point of its original intent. To inform, educate and suggest ways of obtaining and restoring a CBX of your very own without breaking the bank or feeling overwhelmed with the whole process. One thing to keep in mind is that the CBX is really no different than any other bike, big or small in just about every respect other than its unique look and design. It is that uniqueness that scares people off from working on or restoring their own bike.

The other thing that scares people is the apparent condition of some of the components and finishes of the bike. This article will address all of these things, and more, so that you will have a better understanding, and it will focus on the important things to look for in your search for the bike that you are comfortable with buying, and how much work it will take to get it to the level of restoration you want to achieve.

Thanks to Al Gore ( He invented the Internet, Right?), Steve Jobs, and Bill Gates it is sure easier to shop for rare bikes these days not to mention the parts for them.

The best places are eBay, Craigslist, Cycle Trader, and CBX Forums like CBXworld & ICOA by either posting a want ad or check out what other members have for sale. Unfortunately, newspaper ads are almost non existent these days, so forget it.

So with that in mind, buying these babies is almost as easy as it was when they were new. The big difference is that unlike when they were new, you have your choice of how you want it cooked. Rare, Medium or Well Done. You can by a perfect low mile bike with your life savings, you can buy a nice rider, or my favorite, a good all original survivor that is weathered but is still a good running original bike. These are the ones that are perfect for restoration. There is also the basket cases or a molested cases that can be restored, but it will cost more. In my opinion, ALL CBXs are worth restoring. The trees that these bikes grew on have LONG since been cut down and there are no more seeds to plant new ones, so it breaks my heart to see bike after bike being parted out on eBay every day. Mark my words, 10 years from now, there won’t be any left to part out unless they start parting out the beautiful bikes, God forbid.

So, to start with, depending on your overall budget, buy the bike that you feel comfortable jumping into a restoration project that isn’t going to be over your head.

I bought my first Restoration CBX project in 2002 in LA from an ad on Cycle Trader. I flew down to LA to buy it and ride it back up to San Francisco. I got there and the bike was no where near as nice as I thought it was going to be, but I have learned since then that that is going to be the case 9 out of 10 times. So just figure that in the beginning and you will never be disappointed. After all, these bikes are 34 + years old.

The next morning I took off for San Francisco. It’s about 400 hundred miles, so I was looking forward to getting to know the bike on the way. It was a nice sunny January day and a comfortable 65 degrees. After getting through LA traffic, it was clear sailing up 101 for the rest of the day. When I got to my first stop, I noticed there were 2 oil leaks. One from the valve cover and one from the tach cable were it enters the valve cover. For the rest of the trip, I had to have a rag on my lap, and every 10 miles or so reach down and wipe up the oil puddles on the valve cover so it wouldn’t blow all over the place.

One thing remained the same though, the bike ran beautifully! It was fast, and sounded WONDERFUL! No one should be deprived of that wonderful sound that the stock pipes make on a CBX. Honda went through some pain staking efforts to tune that exhaust for a certain sound, and to this day, it is one of the best sounding bikes ever. Didn’t I mention that before?

The lesson here is this. When you are looking for a bike, decide how much of a restoration do you want to do. Do you want a 100 point bike? Do you want to get a fair bike and just ride the hell out of it? Do want a really well kept original bike that needs nothing but maybe a detail? Or do you want a project?

This article is really aimed at the guy who wants a project.

The Project

In my opinion, there are 2 types of projects. One type is that you could get a basket case, or a non running bike that is so far gone, it may as well be a basket case. These bikes are OK, but you really don’t know what you have. So you have to start from scratch. This can be very expensive unless the bike has really nice components like tank, body work, pipes and gauges. If you can get the bike for really cheap, then I think it’s worth it.

The second type is to do what I did. Buy a good running bike where everything is in relatively good working order and you can ride the bike a little before you start your project. This way, you can tell where

This bike was basically a good bike. Low miles, good compression, and mostly all there. The tank was clean inside, but it had been painted black, tail section was good, but painted, original pipes were gone. Wrong shocks, BUT it has a Sport Kit - Very Cool! This is a good example of a 100 point restoration project. You are starting out with a good bike can easily be turned into a 100 point bike. It isn’t cheap, but it will worth what you have in it if not more.

There are a lot of various levels of condition when you talking about this second type of bike. When looking around at the bikes, you will have some level of idea as to what bike you are looking for. For the purpose of this article though, it is assumed that you want to restore the bike to a 100 point show winner, or at least one that closely represents a showroom condition bike. Keeping that in mind, it really doesn’t matter at what state the bike is in cosmetically because bodywork can be replaced and aluminum can be polished, bead blasted and or painted. In the case of my bike, it ran great, and the frame was in almost mint condition. If you can find a bike like that, it really doesn’t matter about the rest. I mentioned the frame because with all of the factory labels that are riveted on it, it just allot easier if you don’t have to remove them for painting or powder coating of the frame. As you will see in my restoration, I had everything that was black powder coated or painted except the frame. I will go into more detail about that later.

The Anatomy of a Honda CBX

Don’t try this at home. This was performed by a professional who was either on crack or was dropped when he was young. And I don’t do crack.

By the way, it took me all day to prepare and setup in order to take this picture.

Actually, this is a great way to take inventory and to plan out your game plan. Just look at it like building a full size model kit of a CBX.

From here, it is so easy to arm yourself with various sizes of zip lock bags and label each part as you bag them up. Organization is key when doing a ground up or frame off restoration. As I stripped the bike down, I lay out the parts on an organized fashion so that I can figure out which items to send to the powder coater, or chrome shop & which items to just simply polish and or clean up, and which ones have to be replaced altogether. Notice the engine & front wheel. They are in the same spot they were when I rolled the bike onto the lift. I will go more into that later in this article.

Your Work Area & Tools

Half the success in any restoration or even normal maintenance on any bike or car is your work space environment and tools. You are only as good as the tools you use. We aren’t talking about a whole lot of money here either. If you have the basics and some specialty motorcycle tools, good shop manuals for the bike, a parts manual for the bike (this is the bible for any bike in my opinion) both an automotive and a motorcycle jack, and best of all, a motorcycle lift, then you can tackle any level of motorcycle restoration that you want. I also have a 20 gallon parts cleaner with real industrial solvent, not the crap you buy at the auto parts store. You should have an organized and clean garage or shop to do a good job. If you have to spend the first week of your project getting it that way, you will re-gain that lost time and then some, and the bike will turn out better. Cost wise for all of this is probably in the neighborhood of a couple of grand maybe. I spent $1000.00 on a motorcycle lift, 100.00 on a parts cleaner, 100.00 on a motorcycle jack (craftsman) and various other tools etc.

The Teardown

The tear down is just as important and as sensitive as the re-assembly. The method and organization of the teardown will determine how the bike goes back together in terms of accuracy and craftsmanship.

Accuracy because if you take note how it came apart, chances are you will put it back together with everything in its right place and position i.e. washers, clamps, ties, etc.

Craftsmanship, because if you tear it apart carefully so as not to mar the nuts, bolts, and screws etc., or scratch everything trying to get it off, then the craftsmanship and/or workmanship is going to come across as good in the end.

You want this bike to look like it has never been apart. When it came from the factory, none of the fasteners were marred up or rounded off. I will sometimes take photos of an item before and during the disassembly so that I can refer to it during re-assembly.